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@@JoeNunya-oz1nd mine came with the 240V plug on the welder.

Can't beat that price!

Just to be clear, I'm just a person who chose to buy it and test it out myself. Then I shared what I found and gave my opinions. I often encourage people to make their own decisions as to what's best for them and would never want anyone to blindly "follow along" with what I say. I also am careful to fairly and accurately represent my results in these videos. The videos are "edited," in that I cut them together. But I don't manipulate them in order to affect the results. In fact, I choose timeline frame rates and resolutions to give the cameras I test the best shot. I've gone out to get additional footage and even re-made entire videos when I found an oversight that might paint an unfair picture of a product. I wouldn't want to misrepresent anything. I have no problem with people using a healthy skepticism when watching my videos. I would only ask that they apply that same level of skepticism when watching anything that tells them they SHOULD buy some product. For instance, if someone were to review this camera and say it's great and people should buy it, I would hope you'd post a very similar comment on that video, telling people not to blindly follow anyone telling them to buy something. However, I don't necessarily agree that the best course of action is to simply buy things and find out for yourself if they are good or junk. There may be times when that's the only options. But whenever possible, I'd recommend you watch multiple reviews. Get multiple perspectives. Try to make the most informed decision you can in order to reduce the amount of time and money wasted on products that simply won't work for you.

It does have night shot. It's an option in the menu. There isn't a specific button for it, though I believe you can set one of the customizable buttons for it.

@@bigtb1717 cool.

I'm guessing there are internal differences. I have tested a 120V welder that was also sold as dual voltage machine on 240V. It blew up instantly, lol.

Granted, I know there are differences in dual voltage vs. single voltage machines. But with a lot of these "generic" machines, it's sometimes difficult to tell. I figured there were internal differences and suspected it would fail, but I wanted to test it. I also tested a couple machines that were sold as 240V only machines on 120V, and they didn't fail, but they didn't operate either.

@@bigtb1717 well crud. I'll send them a message and see what they say. Or maybe how to acquire the 110/220 or 220 version. Then again it's Amazon so If I blow it up claim DOA and get a replacement?

​@@bigtb1717 Guess I'd need to look at the setup closer as well. The one I've messed with did claim dual voltage. But it just feeds a rectifier that then goes to the switching power supply. No switches or anything to set the voltage. But this would be a MIG machine and I don't know how the wire feed is powered. It'd make sense to use a separate transformer and rectifier with a DC motor.

The ARC 200 draws around 45 amps when maxed out on 120V. I don't remember the draw on 240V, but I think around 30-ish. The ARC 160 will be a bit lower than that, just based on the slightly lower output. Unless they have some kind of power factor correction, most inverter machines like this (specifically, when stick welding) will all draw roughly the same input current at a given output. I've seen some with slightly higher output on 120V, and they draw 50+ amps. Trips a 20A breaker really fast. Some may be a tiny bit more or less efficient than others, but there's no major different until there is power factor correction. I have a video where I test six welders. Three with PFC and three without. At a given amperage, the three with PFC drew very similar current. Slight differences in efficiency, maybe, but it was very small differences, despite a huge price difference between the machines. Likewise, the three units without PFC all drew similar amounts of current at a given amperage.

@@bigtb1717 interesting I would expect the current to be higher at 120V than 220. Output voltage and current being equal (this equal power output) it should need the same input power and draw roughly twice as much current at 120V vs 220.

Maybe I wasn't clear. The input current was far higher on 120V than it was on 240V. What I mean is that when any two non-PFC machines are set for the same output amperage and are running the same input voltage, they will draw roughly the same amperage. Likewise, if two machines with power factor correction are set to the same output and running the same input voltage, they will draw roughly the same current. The ARC 200 drew around 45 amps from the wall on 120V and I think around 30 or so on 240V.

@@bigtb1717 I miss read at first. Still a lot closer than I would have expected. I need to get an amp clamp and test my machine now. I expected that it'd pull around half the current at 220, but you only saw a 33% drop. That suggests some big inefficiencies somewhere..

Well, assuming GoToToolz isn't technically lying about their mics, then I wouldn't say either one is a "scam."

Where about are you located? I only ask, because when I've shipped welders in the past, the shipping was a bit extreme.

@@bigtb1717 FL 33065 do you have an email address i can reach you at ? i don't see one at your channel Thanks

There is an email listed on my channel. bigtbcontact@gmail.com

@@bigtb1717 i find it i sent you an email

I do, but I haven't used it in quite a while. I've had loose plans to make another video with it at some point, but haven't gotten around to it.

@@bigtb1717 would you sell it ?

MIG is a very different process. With MIG, the filler is the electrode. Aluminum MIG is a spray transfer process where the filler metal itself creates the arc. The filler metal is then turned into little droplets that are "sprayed" at the aluminum by the force of the arc. The very nature of the process breaks up and blasts through the oxide layer.

@@bigtb1717 Ahh, thats interesting, so all Aluminium welding is done on the higher voltage spray transfer rather than short circuit or dropplet?

@@engjds I guess I can't say it's always spray. It could be globular. It's been a long time since I've looked into the details. But I don't think it's ever technically short circuit. I don't think it takes as much voltage to reach globular or spray transfer as steel does. I'd have to look into it to remind myself of all the details. But it's overall a very different process than TIG and behaves differently.

@@bigtb1717 Hi mate, I got a comment from another welder, which makes interesting an explanation, here it is...Aluminum MIG is run on DCEP (Electrode Positive), which is the part of the TIG AC cycle that does all the cleaning. This puts the majority of the heat into the electrode rather than the workpiece. Since the MIG electrode is consumed and added into the weld puddle, it carries that heat energy back into the weld anyway. With TIG, running DC electrode positive puts too much heat into the non-consumed electrode for it to keep its shape and too little heat into the material. For this reason, the TIG polarity has to switch between electrode positive for cleaning and electrode negative to put heat in the material. Seems to make sense, though maybe you are right as well, and the spray transfer has an effect!

Ah, yes. Electrode positive is used for Aluminum MIG as well. Like I said, it's been too long since I messed with Aluminum MIG.

Bummer. Did you try to get any support or warranty repair from the customer? Just curious.

I called them and they just said, I am out of luck. The warranty had expired. I never used it. I suppose it's my fault but I thought I had charged it up when I got it. Anyway, 11 months, never used and they said Oh well, can't help you. So, No More 4 Patriots of any kind, for me. Thanx@@bigtb1717

Definitely. The DJI Pocket 2 is a much better camera. Personally, I don't recommend the Ordro M3 at all.

@@bigtb1717 thank you friend

When unplugged, will it turn on? If not, I'm not sure how you are supposed to let it run down, other than just letting it sit for months. Are they refusing to cover it under warranty, or is the warranty expired? If they require you to do further testing to verify the fault, then I think it should be up to them to tell you how to do it, if they are requiring it. Good luck. Hopefully you can get something resolved.

Does the inverter at least turn on? If so, just leaving the inverter turned on will drain the battery over time.

My first TIG machine was a 150STL. Great machine. If you mostly do stick, the Fronius has more options and more output on both 240V and 120V. On TIG, it also has far more output, but the stick version I had is a bit less versatile as a TIG machine, due to the lack of remote amperage control or a built-in gas solenoid. The TIG version of the Fronius has those things, but it is yet more expensive.

@@bigtb1717 thank you for the info, Fronius seems built better than miller and more advanced, do you know if the transpocket Tig version support pedal? I've located a Transpocket TIG package priced at $1500 USD with 3 years warranty, do you think it’s a good deal?

I would imagine there is a foot pedal for it, but I honestly haven't seen one. I've only seen the ludicrously expensive Fronius TIG torch with the built-in controls. It's fine, but it's bulky, and at the places around me it's like $500. It's a bit insane. I like that with my Miller I can use an SSC foot pedal and a CK or WeldTec torch. Don't get me wrong. The Fronius machines are really nice. And when I compared the Fronius Transsteel to similar priced Miller machines, the Fronius had better features and output. But I don't like how proprietary the Fronius seems to be when it comes to TIG torches and accessories. But if you get a machine that comes with the TIG torch and can find a foot pedal, that that sounds like a good price, assuming you can trust the warranty at the place you are purchasing from (assuming it's not new with manufacturer warranty).

@@bigtb1717 the one I found comes with a tig torch, with box, no electrode holder, it’s a demo unit factory serviced with full warranty. I don’t like their tig torch either

If it's the TIG version with the built-in gas solenoid and such, that's a good price. That package is around $2,300 new. From what I can see, the included torch has a button, but no amperage control. If a foot pedal is important to you, I would research the availability of a foot pedal first.

At least you got to a live person... I never did & I waited on hold for 29 minutes and 30 seconds before giving up so maybe they would return my call... Emails said I could use the chat but I couldn't find the chat. When I finally found one it was a bot think and not a "live chat." When I started posting my displeasure with both the 2000x & the sidekick... some of my posts disappeared... imagine that. Then I got a chat message from someone... never gave me a name... they took my info and Scheduled me a call back time with a tech... several days later! You spend Thousands of dollars and then get poor follow up service.

If it's on a tripod, you probably don't need stabilization, but you may want some optical zoom. What's your budget?

I would like to stay 400$ max if possible

These days, there just isn't a lot under that budget. Do you need zoom? If not, you may find your phone to be a viable option. Certainly as good or better than most of the generic camcorders out there these days. If you need zoom, you might check out the Sony CX-405. It's available for $230. The image quality isn't fantastic, especially in low light, but it does have 30X optical zoom. Alternatively, you could check out the used market or watch for sales/clearance deals. I've seen decent options go on sale for around $400 once in a while.